Day 12 Tounisse

Wednesday 28 September and the start of an odd sort of day. I didn't see so many people on the way, the forecast rain turns into occasional light drizzle and when I arrive at the gite d'étape I am the only one staying leaving eight empty beds; admittedly it is in the middle of nowhere but it is well placed between two main towns and right on the way.

The gite d'étape itself is fairly new and the small collection of buildings it sits within still looks like a building site. The gite has been built with basic materials and fitted out with second hand furniture and bespoke built elements such as pallets for a coffee table and shelves. It does all work and the pilgrims have a large open plan kitchen, dining and living space. Figeac town had been fully booked when I spoke to a member of a group on their phones in the town centre and the people I did speak to today had complained about the long walk to the next town so I wonder why this place has been overlooked. 

The host who greeted me only spoke French, was very kind and welcoming but very direct. She would finish every sentence with my name. "Follow me to the dormitory AN-TON-EE". She has three dogs and after a while I thought perhaps she thought I was just another (dog) getting under her feet and needing to be fed. Come to think of it, as I hovered by the table before diner she did say "Sit AN-TON-EE".

This is the loo which sums up the place with its comic pages pasted on the walls as wallpaper and this was the only example of loose wiring. 

The fields seemed empty today, mainly because they were. I puzzled over this until I realised that the fields were crisp with dried up grass so the animals were in paddocks with hay. I am still loosely following the river Lot and am moving further south and west.

Part of the quiet today is because some pilgrims take one or other of the two variations on the route, one being to Rocamadour which I think adds an extra day overall.

This photo sums up today and I can see why variations to the route are available here.
I need to find out what these were used for.
When booking places to stay the first of my criteria was for those that provided an evening meal and that has worked well and means an affordable balanced meal. Another was for English speaking hosts and that has been variable and not required as I understand the French for bed, shower and toilet. Distance between accommodation is 24km plus or minus 6km and for the record 24km as an average is enough.

I sometimes write about walks having good infrastructure and this kind of sums it up; everything you need is available and clearly signed. 

Tonight's meal was fairly typical though without the cheese course. A smooth vegetable soup to start, then potatoes and omelette as a main and a duo of far pruneaux and creme caramel as desert. The carbon and protein for a main is normal and may well gave rice. The deserts are often quite simple such as a pit of apple puree. As it was just me I ate with the family so got to chat about cycling trips and so on in a mix of English and French. 

Worryingly I was offered a bright fluorescent jacket so I wouldn't be shot on my journey; someone had been shot near here 2 years ago by hunters. To he clear they hint game and not pilgrims. I had seen the orange jacketted hunters early in the walk and did wonder given their positions how they could safely fire their guns.

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