Day 23 Eauze

Sunday 9th October and I worry about how today will turn out. It was always a longer day but I was informed last night that a deviation is now in place that will add a further 4km to my already long route. It felt like I was up half the night coughing with the cold that has sunk to my chest and this is making me weak. So with no sleep and no strength I head out. On a slightly more positive note given today's longer distance I got away promptly at 08:00 as the sun rose and I soon pass the four campers who had found an excellent spot in a small grassy meadow by an ancient bridge; just one of them is up at this early hour, reading and smoking. With the mist and the hound of the baskervilles baying in the distance it was atmospheric, a feeling heightened when I saw four deer.

It is the weekend and I had seen the orange jacketted hunters yesterday and today it isn't long before I hear the crack of gunfire nearby which explained the howling dogs. Two beagle-like hunting dogs bound over a field on my left running towards me on a fierce mission. To be honest, on this occasion I am slightly concerned following the Rottweiler incident earlier in the year which left me with a scar. Well, they were on the scent of a squirrel or something and bounded over the road in front of me without a glance. Though hunting horns and gunfire echo around me I realise that the real threat to my life is from my own actions as I am stood in the middle of the road updating this blog in the mist.

Just when I think I've left the gunslingers behind me I stumble upon two hunters with three dogs. They are close but facing away from me and just as I am about to stop to assess the situation from a health and safety perspective I step on a dry brittle twig that snaps loudly. The gunmen spin round, pause, exchange a sideways glance with each other and silently decide that hiker isn't on the menu today. Rumour has it that in this area there is a points system. 0 for a miss, 1 for a pheasant, 1 for a peasant, 2 for a hiker, 3 for a pilgrim, 5 for a deer and 8 for a wild boar.

When I finally break free and no longer feel hunted I am reminded of how beautiful the area is especially as today is dominated by vinyards and skies that are a blue you would associate with the Yorkshire Wolds.
I make use of a donativo drinks stop which is useful as the deviation for today takes me away from my planned water fountain. The deviation has me zigzagging around the real route on hot side roads and despite my concerns today turned out to be a day for just walking and by simply strolling along I made good progress. Of course this wouldn't be France if the unexpected didn't happen. A frenchman pulls up on an e-bike and without so much as an introduction pulls me into the woods. In my defence it was difficult to break free. Anyway, a 20 metre walk down a narrow path and I am on the original camino route rather than the deviation. It is cool with dappled shade and being a disused railway embankment pretty flat. Ignoring the fact that I am now a criminal in the eyes of the French authorities I finish the day in shady bliss.
On the outside today's gite looks like the premises of Steptoe and Son and once inside you are definitely taken back to the old situation comedy Steptoe and Son. The under-50s will need to Google that one but here is the view from the first floor kitchen balcony. 
Marie-France quickly shows me to my dormitory, shower, toilet and did I want to do some laundry. I take a handful of t-shirt to my nose, sniff deeply then confirm that no laundry is required tonight. She seemed to appreciate the fact that I at least took the time to assess my needs. 

It is not unusual that a long day gives rise to a short journal entry.

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